Surfing is terrifying

Hey — it’s James

Surfing is terrifying. Doesn’t matter how good you are, what wave size you surf, or how much experience you have.

These days, I hit the water almost every morning. The routine is:

1. Prep at home

2. Tuk-tuk ride

3. Start session

Funny thing—the scariest part is always in the tuk-tuk. That’s when the uncertainty kicks in. I have no clue what the waves will look like or how crowded the lineup will be. No data, no forecast, no nothing.

But the butterflies? Oh, they’re there.

Once I’m in the water, the fear disappears.

I’m locked in. Whatever happens, happens. Monkey brain takes over, and the fear turns into fuel. My body keeps a tiny bit of fear—just enough to stop me from doing anything stupid.

There’s no escaping it. But honestly, I kind of love it. We don’t get many chances to feel scared these days. No dinosaurs to outrun for breakfast.

A daily dose of fear keeps the doctor away.

If you’re French or feeling adventurous, check out this 25-minute documentary on fear in surfing. It features interviews with surfers, including Hermine Bonvallet, a big-wave surfer, who admits she still gets nervous—even when the waves are just 1.5m high.

In my short experience, surfing is scary—but it makes the day better. Tackling waves first thing in the morning makes everything else feel easier. And nothing beats that post-surf glow of accomplishment.

Cheers!

Bits

• The Dock is an epic surf video shot in Bali. It features a half-ton floating dock that pro surfers sprint off, straight into the waves. No paddling needed—but pretty risky 😅

• This clip of a guy snapping his board while running on the beach just made my day. The look on his face says it all.