I’ve been surfing for a year

Hey — it’s James,

Last year, we spent about six months in Tamraght, Morocco. Our apartment had a balcony overlooking Banana Point, one of the best surf spots near Agadir.

So, we decided to learn how to surf! I had surfed a bit as a kid during holidays, but nothing serious.

This time was different — we bought some softboards and hit the waves almost every day.

Honestly, at first, I was pretty scared. I’ve never felt completely comfortable in the water, especially in the ocean with its big waves. I had memories of trying to paddle out as a kid, only to be repeatedly wiped out by the breakers and dragged around for hours.

But, like most things, with consistent practice, it got easier. And after a few weeks, I started to really enjoy it!

As winter set in, so did bigger waves.

I’ll never forget the first big wave I caught — about 1.5 to 2 meters. I remember the speed, the adrenaline coursing through me, and the pure joy of riding it. It was exhilarating, and the feeling stuck with me for days.

Over the next few months, I became more at ease, less afraid, and started getting better at all the other skills surfing requires — paddling, spotting waves, positioning myself, and riding up and down the wave face.

Then, it was time to leave Morocco and its beautiful waves.

The Next Chapter: Sri Lanka

Well, Sri Lanka is also famous for its surf. The south coast is dotted with surf spots, many of which are close to where we live.

I decided it was time to ‘upgrade,’ so I walked into a surf shop and bought a shortboard. It’s not only shorter (6’3”) but also a hardboard — a far cry from the forgiving foamies I had been using.

I’m back to being a beginner, but this time, my progress feels much faster. I’ve had about five sessions so far, and while I’m still struggling to catch waves consistently, when I do, it’s way more fun thanks to the maneuverability of the shortboard.

Surfing can be ungrateful. You spend hours paddling for just a few seconds of thrill. But those few seconds are so intense that it’s always worth the effort.

Of course, I’m lucky to have a job that allows me to live in places where surfing is possible and to go whenever I want. But if you ever get the chance to surf for more than just a one-week holiday, I highly recommend giving it a go 🤙

Cheers!

Bits

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